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UV gel polish
Release time:
2015-10-16 17:03
UV Gel Polish Encyclopedia and Resin Selection
UV gel polish
I. A Comprehensive Guide to Gel Nail Polishes
1. Definition
(1) A new type of nail art method; (2) Mildly toxic and odorless; (3) Environmentally friendly and healthy; (4) Durable and easy to use; (5) Diverse patterns.
2. Sensory and Physicochemical Indicators
(1) Viscous; (2) Low odor; (3) Excellent viscosity; (4) Fast curing; (5) Strong adhesion; (6) Stability.
3. Classification (by coating method)
(1) a. Sealing gel; b. Color gel; c. Base gel. (2) One-step gel / 3-in-1 nail gel.
4. Base coat
Features: Rich color, resistant to cracking and settling, easy to remove, no need for filing or grinding, and gentle on nails.
Surface drying: Does not surface dry; after curing, a small amount of residual glue may remain.
Viscosity: 2000-3000 cPs.
Curing time: UV: 120s, LED: 90s.
Removability: 2–5 minutes.
Adhesion: 30 days.
Function: Applied to the polished and cleaned nail surface, it serves to protect the nails, increase their hardness, and enhance adhesion.
Reference price: 12–18 yuan/15 ml.
Precautions for Use: (1) Leave a 0.5 mm gap from the edge of the flesh; (2) Do not wipe with alcohol after curing; (3) Pay attention to the edging around the fingertips.
5. Colored glue
Features: Rich color, non-toxic and odorless, and gentle on nails.
Surface dryness: Surface dry.
Viscosity: 4000-5000 cps.
Curing time: UV: 90–120 s, LED: 60–90 s.
Removability: 2–5 minutes.
Adhesion: 30 days.
Function: Used to apply on the base coat to achieve decorative effects such as solid colors, pearlescent finishes, shimmering glitter, and sequins.
Reference price: 12–18 yuan/15 ml.
Precautions for Use: (1) Apply within the base coat area; (2) Ensure sufficient curing time; when curing with a UV lamp, keep your thumb horizontally positioned; (3) Pay attention to sealing the edges of the fingertips; (4) Do not apply too thickly, as this may cause wrinkling or shrinkage; (5) For solid colors, apply two coats. Some jelly-colored shades may not achieve a fully solid color effect.
6. Sealant胶
Features: Long-lasting color retention, resistant to chipping, easy to apply, and forms a protective layer on the nail surface, enhancing the color’s durability and brilliance.
Surface dryness: Completely surface-dry.
Viscosity: 2000-3000 cPs.
Curing time: UV: 120s, LED: 90s.
Removability: 2–5 minutes.
Adhesion and brightness durability: 20 days.
Function: Used to coat the surfaces of base gels, color gels, extension gels, and nail-art gels, providing protective features such as wear resistance and scratch resistance. It can enhance the shine of manicures and must be used in conjunction with a base gel or other nail gel products.
Reference price: 12–18 yuan/15 ml.
Precautions for Use: (1) Ensure complete coverage of the base layer during application; (2) Allow sufficient curing time, and be sure to place the thumb horizontally when curing under the lamp; (3) Pay attention to sealing the edges around the fingertips.
7. One-step glue (three-in-one nail gel)
Features: Rich color, resistant to cracking and settling, easy to remove, no need for filing or grinding, gentle on nails—this one-step gel perfectly combines the functions of base coat and top coat in a single product.
Surface dryness: Completely surface-dry.
Viscosity: 4000-4500 cps.
Curing time: UV: 120s, LED: 90s.
Removability: 5–8 minutes.
Adhesion and brightness durability: 20 days.
Function: Applied directly onto a polished and cleaned nail surface, one bottle delivers the manicure effect of three bottles (base coat + color gel + top coat).
Reference price: 16–20 yuan/15 ml.
Precautions for Use: (1) Thoroughly buff the nail surface, especially the nail tips; ensure there is no oil on the nail surface. (2) Allow sufficient curing time; when curing the thumbs, make sure to place them horizontally. (3) Pay attention to sealing the edges of the nail tips. (4) Do not apply too much product in a single coat—this could lead to wrinkling or shrinkage. (5) For solid colors, apply two coats; however, some jelly-colored shades may not achieve a fully solid color effect.
8. Classification (by color gel effect)
(1) Solid-color gel polish; (2) Vibrant-colored gel polish; (3) Cat-eye gel polish; (4) Glow-in-the-dark gel polish; (5) 3D phantom gel polish; (6) Snake-pattern gel polish; (7) Ombre gel polish; (8) Metallic gel polish; (9) Sugar-texture gel polish.
9. Basic Testing Standards
(1) Fast curing; (2) Does not yellow in color; (3) No shrinkage; (4) No wrinkling; (5) High gloss; (6) Non-irritating.
10. Specific Performance Metrics
(1) Fast curing; (2) Excellent adhesion to human fingernails; (3) Flexibility and bend test exceeding 120° with no cracking or bursting; (4) Wiping with 500g of 99.8% analytical-grade alcohol causes no loss of gloss or flaking; (5) No noticeable exothermic reaction; (6) Vibrant colors with no yellowing; (7) High gloss and high fullness; (8) Low skin irritation and no unpleasant odor; (9) Can be removed in 3–4 minutes using nail polish remover.
11. Nail Art Steps
(1) Clean the nails; (2) Apply base coat; (3) UV cure; (4) Apply color gel (if the color isn’t vibrant enough, apply two coats of color gel consecutively); (5) UV cure; (6) Apply top coat; (7) UV cure.
12. Preparations Before Nail Art
(1) Nail shaping: Use a sanding strip to shape your nails into the style you prefer.
(2) Remove cuticles: Use a steel pusher to gently treat the cuticles on the nail surface, working from the outside toward the inside.
(3) Remove cuticles: Use a cuticle fork to gently scrape away the cuticles along the nail edges. (Note: If cuticles are not thoroughly removed, it may affect the longevity of the gel polish.)
(4) Buff the nail surface: Use a sponge buffer to buff the surface of the nails (Note: Make sure to buff thoroughly; otherwise, it will affect the longevity).
(5) Clean the nail surface: Use a dust brush to remove dust from the surface of the nails.
13. Nail Art Steps
(1) Apply base coat; (2) Bake the base coat; (3) Apply top coat; (4) Bake the top coat; (5) Apply seal coat; (6) Bake the seal coat; (7) Wipe off the seal coat.
14. Nail removal steps
(1) Remove the top coat: Use a sanding strip to remove the top coat from your nails, making it easier to remove the nail polish.
(2) Nail-removal pack: Wrap all your fingers with the nail-removal pack, wait for 10 minutes. The nail-removal pack contains nail-removal liquid and nail-removal cotton pads.
(3) Remove the gel: Use a steel pusher to remove the gel polish.
15. Phototherapy nails: Phototherapy nails are artificial nails that are formed by curing phototherapy gel under the irradiation of a UV lamp.
16. Advantages of phototherapy nails
(1) Artificial nails; (2) Not easily broken; (3) Tough and flexible; (4) Protects natural nails; (5) Corrects nail shape.
17. Pros and Cons of Phototherapy Nails
(1) Difficult to remove the nail polish: It takes a long time to file down the polish, and after filing it down to a very thin layer, you then need to soak the nails in a nail-removal solution.
(2) Suboptimal nail health: After removing nail polish, your nails may become dry, dehydrated, and lacking in nutrients. To provide them with sufficient nourishment, you’ll need to apply some nourishing oils to your nails.
(3) Damaging the nails: Gel nails are prone to damaging your own nails when removing them.
18. Nail Art Techniques (LED/Nail Lamp Nails)
(1) Painted art; (2) Crystal carving; (3) Gel colors; (4) Inlaid art.
19. Things to keep in mind when applying gel nail polish
(1) Dead skin must be thoroughly removed;
(2) Be sure to apply two coats of pH-balanced solution before applying the base coat.
(3) The base coat must be applied in extremely small amounts—too much can easily cause the glue to shrink.
(4) The top-color adhesive must be applied thinly—two coats for solid colors and three coats for light, translucent colors—to prevent wrinkles.
(5) The seal coat shouldn't be applied too thickly—pay attention to using an appropriate amount.
(6) Do not apply the no-wash sealant to surfaces with removable adhesive (Note: The no-wash sealant is prone to cracking).
(7) Use an adequate amount of sealant gel cleaning solution for cleaning.
(8) Avoid mixing products from different brands;
(9) Use the nail polish brush to apply the gel polish along the nail surface at the same angle, with the same pressure, speed, and curvature. Avoid applying excessive pressure.
20. Phototherapy lamp
(1) Conventional UV phototherapy lamp; (2) LED-UV phototherapy lamp.
21. Advantages of LED-UV Phototherapy Lamps
(1) Ultra-high illuminance; (2) Long service life; (3) Environmentally friendly and pollution-free; (4) Low energy consumption; (5) Instant-on/off capability; (6) No thermal radiation.
22. Comparison of Power Output Between Two Phototherapy Lamps
|
|
Standard UV phototherapy lamp |
LED-UV phototherapy lamp |
||||
|
Power |
9 watts |
18 watts |
36 watts |
9 watts |
18 watts |
36 watts |
|
Base coat |
180 seconds |
150 seconds |
120 seconds |
40 seconds |
30 seconds |
30 seconds |
|
Colored glue |
180 seconds |
150 seconds |
120 seconds |
40 seconds |
30 seconds |
30 seconds |
|
Sealing adhesive |
240 seconds |
200 seconds |
180 seconds |
50 seconds |
40 seconds |
40 seconds |
|
Wavelength |
370nm-390nm |
|||||
II. Selection of UV Resins
1. Characteristics of UV resin used for base coat
(1) Low-energy curing; (2) Excellent adhesion; (3) Good leveling properties; (4) Resistant to cracking; (5) Strong and flexible, with excellent bend resistance; (6) Easy to remove; (7) Non-toxic and odorless; (8) Rich and vibrant color; (9) Low skin irritation.
2. Recommended UV resin for base coat
(1) B-151; (2) B-216; (3) B-574; (4) B-372/B-375; (5) B-590/B-509B.
3. Requirements for UV Resin Used in Color Adhesives
(1) Strong toughness and excellent bend resistance; (2) Low skin irritation; (3) Good fullness; (4) High and long-lasting gloss; (5) Non-toxic and odorless; (6) Excellent deep curing performance; (7) Good pigment wetting properties.
4. Recommended UV resin for colored glue
(1) B-153; (2) B-375; (3) B-574; (4) B-519; (5) B-530.
III. Selection of UV Monomers
1. Single-position, single-entity recommendation
(1) ACMO; (2) HPMA; (3) HEMA; (4) IBOA; (5) IBOMA.
2. Recommended dual-functional monomers
(1) TPGDA; (2) DPGDA; (3) HDDA.
3. Recommendation of the Three Officials Unit
(1) PET3A; (2) TMPTA; (3) TMP3EOTA; (4) G3POTA.
4. Single recommendations for the Four Officials and Six Officials
(1) PETTA; (2) DPHA; (3) Di-TMPTA.
IV. Selection of Photoinitiators
1. Classification
(1) Benzil compounds: 651;
(2) Benzoin and its derivatives: benzoin;
(3) Thiazine derivatives: ITX, CTX, DETX;
(4) Acyl phosphine oxides: TPO, TPO-L, 819;
(5) Alkyl ketones: 1173, 184, 2959, 907, 369;
(6) Benzophenones: BP.
2. Morphology
Solid: 184, 2959, 651, ITX/CTX/DETX, TPO/819, BP.
Liquid: 1173, MBF, TPO-L.
3. Wavelength
|
Model |
BP |
651 |
184 |
1173 |
2959 |
907 |
369 |
|
Wavelength |
256nm |
254nm |
246nm |
245nm |
237nm |
232nm |
233nm |
|
Model |
TPO |
TPO-L |
819 |
ITX |
DETX |
MBF |
PBZ |
|
Wavelength |
295nm |
242nm |
295nm |
255nm |
261nm |
255nm |
289nm |
4. Melting point
(1) 40-50℃: BP/184;
(2) 60-70℃: 651;
(3) 70-80℃: ITX/DETX/907;
(4) 80-90℃: 2959;
(5) 90-100℃: TPO;
(6) 110-120℃: 369;
(7) 120-130℃: 819.
The higher the melting point, the more difficult it is for the photoinitiator to dissolve and disperse.
5. Recommended Photoinitiators
(1) TPO; (2) TPO-L; (3) 819; (4) 907; (5) 369; (6) ITX.
6. Instructions
(1) The wavelengths of TPO, TPO-L, 819, 369, and 907 meet the requirements for nail lamp applications.
(2) The addition of 369 and 819 significantly affects the appearance of gel nail polish, causing it to turn directly into a deep yellow color. Therefore, they are not recommended for use in base coats or top coats.
(3) The addition of 651, 369, and 819 significantly affects the yellowing of the cured film of nail gel polish, resulting in poor yellowing resistance.
(4) The systems based on 184 and 1173 have low photoinitiation efficiency when cured with phototherapy lamps, making them unsuitable.
V. Recipe Recommendations
1. Recommended base coat formula
|
Ingredients |
Proportion |
Note |
|
B-372 |
55.7 |
3-Component Polyurethane |
|
B-151 |
15 |
Modified epoxy |
|
ACMO |
20 |
Single official single entity |
|
HEMA |
5 |
Single official single entity |
|
TPO |
4 |
Photoinitiator |
|
EFKA3777 |
0.3 |
Flow agent |
|
Total |
100 |
|
2. Recommended formula for colored glue
|
Ingredients |
Proportion |
Note |
|
B-375 |
47.2 |
3-Component Polyurethane |
|
B-530 |
20 |
Polyester |
|
ACMO |
20 |
Single official single entity |
|
TPO |
4 |
Photoinitiator |
|
907 |
2 |
Photoinitiator |
|
ITX |
1 |
Photoinitiator |
|
BYK9076 |
0.2 |
Dispersant |
|
TEGO920 |
0.3 |
Defoamer |
|
EFKA3777 |
0.3 |
Flow agent |
|
Color paste |
5 |
Pigment |
|
Total |
100 |
|
3. Recommended formulation for seal coat adhesive
|
Ingredients |
Proportion |
Note |
|
B-574 |
35.7 |
Polyester |
|
B-151 |
10 |
Modified epoxy |
|
B-619W |
20 |
6-Component Polyurethane |
|
TMPTA |
20 |
3 official entities |
|
ACMO |
10 |
Single official single entity |
|
TPO |
4 |
Photoinitiator |
|
EFKA3777 |
0.3 |
Flow agent |
|
Total |
|
|
The above-mentioned indicators and recommended performance levels are measured under fixed conditions and do not guarantee suitability for all intended applications. For different application purposes and conditions, users must independently verify the formulations to ensure compliance with requirements.
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